This month, writes Peter Coates, we travel from the north of this beautiful country down to its sole, on what is known as the ‘boot’ of Italy.
Italy is the 10th largest country in Europe and the third most populous in the EU, with 60 million people. It has 4,000 miles of motorway. Main roads are generally in good condition, well-maintained and well-signed. However, roads in rural areas are often narrow and not so great.
In historic centres, they’re often not only narrow but winding and congested, where many cyclists, motorcyclists and other vehicles invariably ignore traffic lights and other aspects of the highway code. So beware: Italian traffic can be chaotic! But you probably knew that already.
If you’re using satnav, it’s also worth double-checking your destination, because many towns in different areas have the same name. If you’re travelling in Italy and you’re stopped for speeding, you’ll also be required to pay an on-the-spot fine.
Theory
It is, however, an incredible country and well worth exploring by car (hired or otherwise), motorhome or caravan. Even on an iconic scooter if you’re feeling brave.
Italy has more UNESCO World Heritage Sites than anywhere else in the world. It also has more hotel rooms than any European country, and it’s superstitious to have a 17th floor or to put your hat on a bed.
As Michael Caine almost certainly didn’t say in The Italian Job, not a lot of people know that.
But what about naturism in Italy?
There’s a theory that many Italians like to wear chic clothes rather than wander around naked. But naturism is widely practised, albeit usually in designated areas, and several coastal towns will have a nude beach close by if you want to seek one out.
However, the number of naturist campsites is relatively small given the country’s size and climate, so let’s begin our journey just over the French-Italian border northwest of Turin.
LE BETULLE
This is a well-established site which covers 14 hectares. Pitches are well-spaced and scattered in four zones across wooded hillsides rather than being in regimented rows. Sanitation blocks are conveniently spaced around the site.
You can also rent bungalows and mobile homes, sleeping 2-4 people, a caravan or a chalet, all of which are spread around the site.
There’s a large swimming pool with lots of sunbathing space, a clubhouse where you’ll find games, and a bar which serves breakfast, plus a laundry area, sauna, hamman and fitness room.
There’s no restaurant as such, however, so it’s largely self-catering.
NATURIST CAMPING COSTALUNGA
Find Genoa on the northern Italian coast and you’ll see Costalunga, northwest near the town of Sassello.
It lies in a wooded area of 15,000sq. metres, with panoramic views of the valley below. It has 40 pitches, all with electric hook-ups, two fully equipped mobile homes, two glamping megapod bungalows and three new, fully-equipped wooden chalets.
There’s a large infinity pool with sunbathing areas, but again no restaurant or snack bar.
Open from 15 April to 6 October, the campsite emphasises its environmental credentials, with 100% green energy and a solar thermal system for its hot water.
BNATURAL NATURISM AND GLAMPING
This campsite boasts of being the first naturist glamping site on the Etruscan coast in Tuscany and lies 3 kilometres from the naturist beach at Rimigliano.
Whilst there’s lots of information on their website about living nude and close to nature, there’s not so much about the facilities. It’s evidently early days.
Suffice to say there are camping pitches for caravans, campervans and tents, and you can rent well-equipped glamping tents.
There’s no swimming pool, restaurant or bar yet, but if you’re planning a visit, remember this is one of the very few naturist campsites actually on the Italian coast, so there are compensations.
CAMPING NATURISTA CA’LE SCOPE
You’ll find this campsite south of Bologna, near Modena and not too far from Florence, so it’s a great base for sightseeing.
It’s located on the top of a mountain in the Monte Sole National Park.
You’ll find 40 pitches offering either sun or shade, and most have electric hook-ups. There’s a small swimming pool, and three sanitary blocks are conveniently located around the site.
You can also rent two-person cottages and caravans, together with a vintage caravan with a wooden house in the ‘forest zone.’
If you prefer to have your catering done for you, you can stay in the main house in a double bedroom which has a bathroom (but no kitchen) and can choose between half or full board.
NATURIST SASSO CORBO
Travelling south down the west coast from BNatural, you’ll see Grosseto. Head inland due east to find Naturist Sasso Corbo, just north of Semproniano.
This lovely site was established by Dutch couple Bas and Dominica with their four sons. They lived the dream by buying 23 hectares on a mountain in Tuscany. Why not?
The site has 40 pitches with electric hook-ups, and five fully-equipped wooden safari tents for hire.
Sanitary blocks are conveniently positioned around the site, and there’s a large infinity pool with lots of sunbathing areas.
There is no restaurant, but dinners are served twice weekly and, being in Tuscany, there are lots of sightseeing possibilities: hence the campsite organises excursions.
NATURIST GARGANO
Head across to the east coast of the country and halfway down you’ll come across a spur that is the Gargano peninsula. Naturist Gargano occupies a stunning site on the peninsula, overlooking the Adriatic.
It’s set in 14 acres of woodland, with camping pitches freely located around the grounds, so you never feel crowded in.
The main feature of the site is the beautiful large swimming pool, with lots of surrounding terraces on different levels, most of them offering stunning sea views.
You’ll also find shady nooks located around the pool area with beds and hammocks for relaxing, snoozing or reading.
Meals are offered daily at a large, communal table in the shade by the side of the pool. The emphasis is on home-cooked recipes, prepared by Maria and her helpers, and some of the produce comes from the site’s own garden.
There’s also a well-stocked bar with a seating area overlooking the pool.
There are 10 bungalows for rent, each brightly decorated in a bohemian style, one being adapted for those with reduced mobility.
And if it’s exercise you want, there’s a well laid-out woodland track with wooden exercise structures along the way for a healthy nude workout.
PIZZO GRECO
Located right down in the south, on the Calabrian coast, and established in 1984.
The site has a large camping area where some pitches have sea views. You can rent fully-equipped bungalows sleeping from 2-5 people, and there are less expensive, basic bungalows available which have no bathroom but are close to the sanitary blocks.
You can also rent caravans which have a kitchenette in a covered external area, sleeping up to four people.
There’s a large restaurant on the site, whilst a short walk down an unmade track leads to Pizzo Greco’s own sandy naturist beach.
Please note: whilst the track is relatively short and not too steep, it may not be suitable for those with reduced mobility. But if you do make it, the beach has its own small bar serving snacks and drinks.
Sometimes the simple pleasures are the best.